Boss BASS1400 1400-Watt 10-Inch Low Profile Amplified Subwoofer

Boss BASS1400 1400-Watt 10-Inch Low Profile Amplified Subwoofer
Updated on : April 24, 2013
Category : Car Seats
List Price: : $ 299.00
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Boss BASS1400 1400-Watt 10-Inch Low Profile Amplified Subwoofer

Boss BASS1400 1400-Watt 10-Inch Low Profile Amplified Subwoofer

  • Remote Subwoofer Level Control
  • RCA Low Level Input
  • High Level Input
  • Subsonic Filter (20-50Hz)
  • Thermal, Short And Overload Protection Circuits

1400 Watts 10″ Low Profile Amplified Subwoofer

Question by Tiffany: What does a good car sound system qualify as?
I have a 1994 Nissan Altima that I am going to be using pretty soon. Since I am not a car person, I wanted to know what makes for a good sound system. I don’t want anything flashy, just something with somethins w/ a little “oomph”. Should I buy speakers, an amplifier and subwoofers? Or just an amplifier (I still have factory speakers).

Best answer:

Answer by Darius
Amplifier, speakers, deck, audio wiring, subwoofer, the audio sealing so the noise down’t get out of the car, cables, battery for the sound system, equalizer, crossover, line driver, fuses, fuse distribution blocks, head unit and cleaned sound ports. I’m sure I’m missing some things but those are the basics to a good sound system.

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What customers say about Boss BASS1400 1400-Watt 10-Inch Low Profile Amplified Subwoofer

  1. Derik R Miller says:
    2 of 4 people found the following review helpful
    5.0 out of 5 stars
    good enough, February 20, 2013
    By 

    Amazon Verified Purchase(What’s this?)
    This review is from: Boss BASS1400 1400-Watt 10-Inch Low Profile Amplified Subwoofer (Electronics)

    this amplified subwoofer was at a good price so i got it and it is well worth the money.installed in my single cab truck.its not super loud but it is perfect for what I wanted.

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  2. Brian says:
    0 of 1 people found the following review helpful
    2.0 out of 5 stars
    not so good, March 25, 2013
    By 
    Brian

    Amazon Verified Purchase(What’s this?)
    This review is from: Boss BASS1400 1400-Watt 10-Inch Low Profile Amplified Subwoofer (Electronics)

    It worked great for avout 3 weeks… then it just up and stopped working… i took it apart and found out i had to push up on the speaker cone from the bottom but if i did not keep upward pressure on it, it does not work…

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  3. Rem Hernandez Ferro says:
    1 of 8 people found the following review helpful
    4.0 out of 5 stars
    not sure, January 3, 2013
    By 

    Amazon Verified Purchase(What’s this?)
    This review is from: Boss BASS1400 1400-Watt 10-Inch Low Profile Amplified Subwoofer (Electronics)

    great look,i really think it will do everything i expected, pucased trying to save some space in car and not to close my trunk, but in the end i think i will look for an other model

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  4. Murcie_LP640 says:

    The bare minimum for a good setup is to replace the speakers, chuck a sub in the boot, one or two amps to power the whole ensemble and a head unit.

    Speakers
    ————–
    - As a priority, make sure they fit the holes that the original speakers came out of. I had this problem with my ’88 Skyline; fitted speakers that were 0.5″ too big and so had to take them back and get a new set

    - Generally your sound quality is a “you get what you pay for” affair. That said, there is such a thing as bang for buck. I picked up a full set of 4 speakers by Rockford Fosgate for a fairly cheap $ 198, and they’re very good quality splits.

    Sub
    ——

    - Unless you want to spend a bit of money on a fibreglass installation for the boot, you’re best off getting a sub that either already has an enclosure, or a sub and an enclosure separtely.

    - If you really want a good bass punch, two small subwoofers will outperform one big one. That said though, I have a single 12″ sub sitting snug in the boot which, when it resided in our 2005 ‘Rex, we called The Kidney Cruncher.

    - Make sure it is secured properly as it can be defectable if it isn’t. If it came with clips and straps, make sure they’re mounted so that it won’t move around. My sub is being held down with some extra-strength Velcro as my dad lost the straps.

    Amplifiers
    —————

    - The main thing to remember with your amplifiers is that you need enough channels to connect all of your speakers and the sub. Many headunits can help with this bit as well as many have built-in amplifiers. My setup has three amps: one powering the sub, one powering the rear speakers and the headunit’s amp powering the front speakers.

    - Make sure they’re secured so they don’t bounce around and get damaged when you go over undulations. I had to remove access to the boot from the rear seats for this but what I did was simply attach a plank of plywood to the front-most wall of the boot and bolted the amps to that. If you’re not doing the installation yourself then you don’t need to worry about this.

    Headunit
    ————-

    - Get one that has ALL of the stuff you want and/or need. Try and find one with a built-in amp, Auxiliary/iPod input and a CD/DVD player at the bare minimum. The headunit is where most of your money is going to be spent.

    - Make sure you know whether the dash in your Altima allows for a “double-DIN” headunit or not. Essentially, Single-DIN headunits are small, like this:

    http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/audio-alarms/46964d1214485158-anyone-installed-crutchfield-single-din-conversion-kit-s197-shot1.jpg

    Whereas Double-DIN is exactly as it would seem – double the size:

    http://www.removethelabels.com/images/KW-AVX830_doubleDIN_JVC.jpg

    As you can see there, Double-DIN headunits are usually the ones that have touchscreens built into them, however Single-DIN can have a foldout touchscreen as well. The one I have in my ’88 Skyline is a Kenwood Single-DIN headunit with a 7″ foldout touchscreen. The cost? A cool $ 850.

    Other things to know
    ——————————-

    - If you don’t know your way around a car’s electrical system, then seek help from professionals. Seek out your nearest audio shop (preferably the one you get your components from if they do installations; it’ll be cheaper and easier that way) and ask them to do all the installation. You’ll probably be without a car for a couple of days but it’ll mean you won’t get any of the hiccups that I as an example got with a DIY installation, like the iPod/Aux cable that doesn’t work, and no sound coming out of the rear speakers.

    - If your car’s battery is in need of a change, get a fresh and strong one to cope with the sound system. Sound systems sap a LOT of energy from the battery and if the battery’s on its way out you’re probably going to be asking for lots of jump-starts. This also means a check on the alternator to make sure it’s recharging the battery properly.

    Wall of text over. Hope this helps you, and good luck



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